Huge murals, contemporary art pieces, and lighting fixtures that wash the whole scene in multi-colored pulsing light – Session Kitchen delivers ambience in spades. But the star of the show here isn’t the space, it is the food. Everything I tried here was amazing – the brie corn bread with kombucha hot sauce, the fried green tomato parmesan, the loaded avocado. I would gladly order them again. But for me, as a lover of all things sweet, pastry chef, Levi Kuettel’s creations could not be better.
On a recent Sunday, I was treated to a brunch at Session. I began with the biscuit. How something so seemingly simple could become a major standout of a menu of this caliber is a testament to Kuettel’s talent. Flaky, subtly buttery, soft on the inside and not one iota dry, they are delicious as-is or spread with butter and drizzled with house made jam. It would be a sin to dine here without trying one.
The pastry du jour on the day I stopped in was an elegant Danish with brie, poppy seed paste, and blackberry compote, finished with a cream cheese glaze. If the only kind of Danish you’ve had is the sad, floppy piece of pastry with a sickeningly sweet cream cheese center, forget everything you know. This is galaxies apart. Sweet, savory, sophisticated, yet accessible – I dare you not to be wowed.
The consummate brunch dessert, Kuettel’s cronuts – think croissant donut – are so good that they literally brought tears to my eyes and snatched the words out of my mouth. They come out as a pair drenched in the sauce-like chocolate or vanilla cream cheese frosting. Take your pick or eat both. It’s hard to share something this good.
Session Kitchen has it all – location (South Pearl in the old Izakaya Den,) atmosphere, and most importantly, creative, well-executed food. A feast for the senses, you can have a great meal and indulge your sweet tooth all while soaking up the genuinely cool vibe. Session is open for brunch Friday through Sunday from 11 am – 3 pm. Happy hour is from 3 pm – 6 pm and dinner nightly is served from 5 pm to close.